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465 West 23rd Street, Suite 9B
New York, NY, 10011
United States

(917) 664-2294

JOURNAL

CAN I TELL YOU ... TAKE A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD WITH ME, MEET THE WOMEN THAT INSPIRE ME OR GET THE SCOOP ON NEW STYLES.

Filtering by Category: Europe

Can I tell you about ... Berlin

Rafe Totengco

STAY

I stayed at Hotel De Rome because the location was ideal with surrounding historic buildings and I love Rocco Forte properties. Set in Berlin's former Dresdner bank, the hotel has been beautifully furnished by Tommaso Ziffer in shades of grey and black with accents of red. They offer a lavish spread for breakfast and the former bank vault is now a fabulous spa to retire to at the end of the day. 
 

DO

The East Side Gallery is one of the most visited landmarks in Berlin because it is a memorial for freedom containing the last remaining section of the Berlin Wall. The site is the longest and largest open air art gallery in the world consisting of 105 paintings by artists from all over the world. I wanted to see Dmitri Vrubel's "My God, Help Me to Survive This Deadly Love" based on a famous photo of Leonid Brezhnev and Erich Honecker kissing each other. Seeing The Wall and all the murals depicting images of freedom made me realize how lucky I am to be living my life the way I want.
 

EAT

Walking into Berlin's hottest restaurant Pauly Saal, a former Jewish girls' school, is like passing through history from the 1920's bar lounge to the elegant dining room that used to be the school's gymnasium. On the opposite side of the restaurant is a Kosher Deli. The main dining room has a more contemporary feel with four gorgeous Murano chandeliers from Pauly et Cie (hence the name) and a gigantic rocket hanging over the open window to the kitchen. 
 

MUST SEE

The Boros Bunker. The bunker has been used for many purposes. It was originally built as air raid shelter against Allied bombing during World War II, then for fruit storage in the 50s, then in the early 90s for techno-rave parties and today as contemporary art gallery and private residence. A part of the private collection belongs to advertising entrepreneur Christian Boros and his wife Karen.On display currently are installations by Ai Wei Wei, Klara Liden, Michael Sailstorfer and photographs by Wolfgang Tillmans and Thomas Ruff. 
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

Ever since the Wall came down in 1989, I have been itching to see Berlin. Over the past ten years the city has generated a lot of buzz in the fashion industry with the help of Bread and Butter, a trade fair featuring contemporary clothing and accessory brands from all over the world. I would definitely return to Berlin, because there is so much more than meets the eye.

Can I tell you about ... Mallorca

Rafe Totengco

STAY

The Can Cera Hotel. I love history especially grand structures converted into boutique hotels. This building dates back 700 years to when Jaume 1 conquered Mallorca form the Catalan and Aragonese troops. It's in the old part of Palma between two major plazas and a stone's throw away from the Cathedral. 

DO

Drive around and discover all the little towns. Valldemossa is a quintessential Majorcan town that's a short and scenic drive from Palma. The town is famous because this is where Frederic Chopin lived and composed some of his romantic symphonies. Santanyi is another town worth visiting. During the weekends there is a farmers' market selling local produce as well as bohemian beach clothes and Moroccan towels.

EAT

Sitting on the edge of a cliff on a rocky peninsula that protrudes out into the Mediterranean is the best paella restaurant in Mallorca. It's called Sa Foradada, and Lidia Fernandez runs the restaurant with her father Emilio, who has been cooking paella and other delicacies for four decades. Squid, cuttlefish, mussels, prawns, clams, crab legs and sea bream are all thrown into the mix using traditional techniques to create dishes that are mouth watering and unforgettable.

MUST SEE

The Drach Caves or Cuevas del Drach (Dragon Caves). The caves are a spectacular attraction that are comprised of approximately 12 miles of four interconnected caves and one of the largest underground lakes in the world. The stalagmites and stalactites are beautifully lit to great dramatic effect making it irresistible not to take photos even though it's prohibited. 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

Mallorca has become one of my favorite destinations to visit in the summer. There is so much to do, and yet the island is so relaxed that after a few days you'll feel like you've been relaxing for a week. From discovering the different towns on the island to taking in the rolling landscape dotted with olive and almond tree farms, it's easy to fall under Mallorca's spell.

Can I tell you about ... Prague

Rafe Totengco

STAY

The Augustine Hotel is a 13th century monastery converted into a luxury five-star hotel and spa. Rumor has it several friars still live on the property and brew their own beer.
 

DO

No visit to Prague is complete without a night at the State Opera House. Originally named the German Theatre when in it opened in 1888, the opera house was neglected during the communist years but has been transformed into a beautiful landmark.
 

EAT

U Modre Kachnicky or the "blue duckling" is known for their updated takes on traditional recipes and, of course, for their duck dishes. The menu is loaded with an array of wild game and other Czech favorites. It's tucked away on a quiet street in Lesser Town, making it the perfect location for an intimate dinner.
 

MUST SEE

I loved wandering the narrow cobbled streets around the Old Town and the Jewish Quarter. The area is filled with synagogues, churches and buildings that were erected over the centuries and are a stunning collage of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architectural styles.
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

The beauty of Prague. Prague was one of the few European cities that wasn't bombed during World War II, and it was under communist rule from 1945 until 1989. Because it's been trapped behind the Soviet's Iron Curtain, much of its old-world charm has remained largely intact and undiscovered until these last 20 years.

Can I tell you about ... Venice

Rafe Totengco

STAY

Palazzo Stern in the Dorsoduro area. Our room had a fabulous view and it was such a luxury to have breakfast and early evening cocktails on the terrace facing the Palazzo Grassi across the Grand Canal. Not to mention, the location couldn't have been more ideal being a hop and skip away from the Accademia and Saint Mark's square.
 

DO

A visit to the Ghetto. Established in 1516, it was the first Ghetto in the world. Napoleon Bonaparte is credited for freeing the Jews back in 1797 when he opened the gates and allowed them to live outside of the Ghetto. To this day, the Ghetto is still the epicenter of Jewish life in the city and has a beautiful kosher hotel.
 

EAT

Osteria da Fiore is a cozy Michelin star rated restaurant that well deserves it. Mara Martin, the chef, is known for combining traditional Italian cooking with a contemporary twist. Both the cuttlefish risotto and the steamed sea bass with aged balsamic vinegar are worth returning for.
 

MUST SEE

The Punta della Dogana museum. Designed by Tadao Ando and commissioned by Francois Pinault, the museum opened during the Venice Art Biennale after 14 months of restoration. The former customs house was meticulously restored to showcase a selection of Pinault's massive contemporary art collection. Only 141 out of 2,500 pieces made the cut to be permanently exhibited here.
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

I love to meander and get lost in a city and Venice is perfect for that. There are so many tiny ancient streets that end abruptly or at a canal, and to make matters even more confusing, street names are repeated in different neighborhoods and house numbers seem to be allocated at random. But then, in Venice, getting lost is part of the fun.

Can I tell you about ... Capri

Rafe Totengco

STAY

J.K. Place Capri is the chicest boutique hotel in Capri, bar none. It's away from the hustle and bustle of the Marina Grande and Piazza Umberto. It's like staying at a private villa complete with a spa and a pool. All the rooms are elegantly furnished with antiques and art, plus have sweeping views of the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius.
 

DO

Rent a private boat to take you around the island, go through the Faraglioni then Marina Piccola and Marina Grande. If the sea isn't rough, go in the Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto). You'll have to transfer to a smaller boat because the entrance is so miniscule that you'll have to lie down in the boat just to get in. You'll never forget the color of the turquoise waters once you're inside. It's surreal!
 

EAT

Paolino! This Caprese institution lives up to its reputation for traditional Italian cuisine infused with hints of lemon. I love dining al fresco under an arbor of lemon trees. Everything is simply prepared and molto molto buono!
 

MUST SEE

See a quieter side of Capri, head to Anacapri on the other side of the island. It's quaint, relaxed and down to earth. If you're lucky you can flag the only red vintage Fiat Cabrio taxi driving around the island. You'll feel like you're really living La Dolce Vita!
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

Capri is a contradiction of high octane glamour and rustic charm at the same time. There is so much to do and see; from hiking down perilous limestone cliffs to having lunch overlooking the spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea. It's such an inspirational destination. It's no wonder why stylish women like Jackie O and Sophia Loren kept coming back for years.

Can I tell you about ... Amsterdam

Rafe Totengco

Last Thanksgiving I decided to treat myself and go Dutch. I hopped on a plane and flew to the Venice of the North, Amsterdam.

STAY

Hotel Pulitzer offers stunning views of the canals and is in The Nine Streets, which is the most picturesque and charming part of the city. 

DO

Visit the Van Gogh museum. There are over 800 works by the artist. Seeing his paintings made me want to go to Provence. That's on my list for this year.

EAT

Amsterdam is a city for foodies. My favorite restaurant is De Kas; located about twenty minutes outside the city center in Frankendael Park. The restaurant grows their own vegetables, herbs and edible flowers which they grow in an old greenhouse that used to belong to the Municipal Nursery.

MUST SEE

Stroll through the streets in The Nine Streets area. There's a diverse selection of small boutiques, cafes and bars.

WHAT I LOVED MOST

The shopping. If you didn't already know this, I'm slightly addicted to vintage clothing and accessories. Fortunately, The Nine Streets neighborhood has a handful of unique shops that stock amazing pieces from the 50's to the 80's.

Can I Tell You about ... Sintra

Rafe Totengco

After my first trip to Portugal several years ago I knew it wouldn't be long before I returned. Every local I had met in Lisbon said I must go to Sintra, so who was I to disagree. "Going to Sintra is like stepping into a fairy-tale!" my concierge exclaimed.
 

STAY

I stayed in a rented home on the outskirts of Sintra in a small town called Colares.
 

DO

The Pena Palace is definitely on top of my list. It's a fabulous pastiche of nineteenth century neo-moorish and neo-medieval styles; a great example of Portugese architecture during the Romantic period.
 

EAT

Buy food from the local farmers who set up roadside stalls selling produce fresh from their gardens. Everything tastes so good!
 

MUST SEE

Check out Boca do Inferno (literally Hell's Mouth). During high tide view the spectacle of the violent waves crashing on the rocks, you can see why this spot earned its name.
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

The collection of magnificent palaces, grand homes and gardens coupled with the narrow and winding streets which lives up to Sintra's mysterious, fairytale reputation.

Can I Tell You about ... Paris

Rafe Totengco

STAY

The Notre Dame Hotel is a boutique property, boasting interiors designed by Christian Lacroix - I'm a huge fan of his sense of color and pattern mixing. The interiors paid homage to his haute couture collections with their bold colors and unexpected mélange of prints. The location was perfect, right along the banks of the Seine. Second hand bookstores, sidewalk cafes, the Luxembourg Gardens, Isle de la Cite and the trendy Le Marais district were all within walking distance. My room had a beautiful view of the famous Notre Dame cathedral, which was quite a sight to behold at sunrise and sunset. 
 

EAT

I crave Moroccan food whenever I'm in Paris. I'm not sure why, but fortunately there are plenty of establishments to choose from! Chez Omar is an old standby and conveniently located in the north end of Le Marais. It's easy to miss because the façade is quite unassuming, so keep your eyes peeled. The menu is limited to the classics, but if you're not sure what to get, the waiters will happily decide for you. Be ready with cash because they don't take credit cards. Nor do they take reservations so try to arrive early since the restaurant is always packed.
 

SHOP

At the edge of Le Marais, set in an old converted factory is a fabulous store called Merci. You can buy flowers, read a second hand book in their café, shop for home furnishings, children's clothing and exclusive items from the chicest fashion labels. The best part about patronizing Merci is that the owners are using all profits after breaking even to operate a co-op for young women in Madagascar. Who doesn't love charitable shopping? 
 

MUST SEE

The Musee D'Orsay is one of my favorite museums. It's not as overwhelming or exhausting as the Louvre; you can fully explore it in a few hours. I usually prefer to go in the late morning so that by lunchtime I can head to the restaurant that has the most incredible painted ceilings and grandiose crystal chandeliers. It's very Belle Epoque, quite glamorous. 
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

Paris is the one city I never tire of coming back to year after year, season after season. It first captivated my imagination during my formative years when I first saw Brassai's evocative photos of cafe society. Now I come twice a year for work to observe trends, do a little shopping, and of course, to be inspired. There's always a new store to visit, an exhibit to see, a bistro to try. It's a wonderful walking city; I love how you can wander aimlessly for hours from one neighborhood to another. And of course there's that certain "je ne sais quoi" about Parisians that makes people watching at cafes a sport!