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JOURNAL

CAN I TELL YOU ... TAKE A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD WITH ME, MEET THE WOMEN THAT INSPIRE ME OR GET THE SCOOP ON NEW STYLES.

Filtering by Category: Travel

Can I tell you about ... Amsterdam

Rafe Totengco

Last Thanksgiving I decided to treat myself and go Dutch. I hopped on a plane and flew to the Venice of the North, Amsterdam.

STAY

Hotel Pulitzer offers stunning views of the canals and is in The Nine Streets, which is the most picturesque and charming part of the city. 

DO

Visit the Van Gogh museum. There are over 800 works by the artist. Seeing his paintings made me want to go to Provence. That's on my list for this year.

EAT

Amsterdam is a city for foodies. My favorite restaurant is De Kas; located about twenty minutes outside the city center in Frankendael Park. The restaurant grows their own vegetables, herbs and edible flowers which they grow in an old greenhouse that used to belong to the Municipal Nursery.

MUST SEE

Stroll through the streets in The Nine Streets area. There's a diverse selection of small boutiques, cafes and bars.

WHAT I LOVED MOST

The shopping. If you didn't already know this, I'm slightly addicted to vintage clothing and accessories. Fortunately, The Nine Streets neighborhood has a handful of unique shops that stock amazing pieces from the 50's to the 80's.

Can I Tell You about ... Sintra

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After my first trip to Portugal several years ago I knew it wouldn't be long before I returned. Every local I had met in Lisbon said I must go to Sintra, so who was I to disagree. "Going to Sintra is like stepping into a fairy-tale!" my concierge exclaimed.
 

STAY

I stayed in a rented home on the outskirts of Sintra in a small town called Colares.
 

DO

The Pena Palace is definitely on top of my list. It's a fabulous pastiche of nineteenth century neo-moorish and neo-medieval styles; a great example of Portugese architecture during the Romantic period.
 

EAT

Buy food from the local farmers who set up roadside stalls selling produce fresh from their gardens. Everything tastes so good!
 

MUST SEE

Check out Boca do Inferno (literally Hell's Mouth). During high tide view the spectacle of the violent waves crashing on the rocks, you can see why this spot earned its name.
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

The collection of magnificent palaces, grand homes and gardens coupled with the narrow and winding streets which lives up to Sintra's mysterious, fairytale reputation.

Can I Tell You About ... Manila

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STAY

I had the pleasure of staying at Shangri-La Makati. It is literally in the center of everything you could possibly want to get to, right in the heart of Makati. It's a hop and a skip to Rustan's Department Store (where they have a Rafe corner) and a few blocks away from Greenbelt 5 Mall where all the best boutiques, luxury labels and restaurants are.
 

DO

I love Carlos Celdran's Walk This Way walking tour of Intramuros (old Manila). He's funny, factual and flamboyant. I've learned more about our history in just a few hours with him than I ever did reading about it in school. He puts everything in context and doesn't mince words about our colorful colonial past. Next time I come back I'm going to take his Imelda Tour. I've heard it's hilarious and full of outrageous stories!
 

EAT

M Cafe is one of my favorite restaurants in Manila. You can't go wrong with their take on traditional Filipino cuisine, whether you're there for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Some of my favorites include Pansit Buko (coconut strip 'noodles'), Pansit Tinta (rice vermicelli with squid ink sauce), Halaan (clam soup) and desserts like Leche Flan Turon (fried banana spring rolls with custard filling) and Jackfruit Sans Rival. If M Cafe is too full, just go to their adjoining restaurant, Kabila, which literally means "other side".
 

MUST SEE

The Ayala Museum is a must if you're already in Manila. When I was a child I used to love going to see the dioramas they have depicting the history of the Philippines. One of the most inspiring exhibits I've seen at the museum was Gold of Ancestors: A staggering collection of pre-colonial gold objects and jewelry.
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

Manila is my second home! As soon as I land and text a friend, it turns into a domino effect! Before I know it my schedule is completely filled for breakfast, lunch and dinner with all of my friends. Every occasion revolves around food, especially all of the comfort food I can't seem to get enough of whenever I'm back - you'd think I was a starving orphan!

Can I Tell You about ... Honolulu

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STAY

We chose Hotel Renew, a chic and modern alternative half a block away from the beach with windows facing the sea. The hotel staff was friendly and helpful. They offer complimentary beach towels, folding chairs and boogie boards to borrow so you can hit the beach fully equipped. What we liked most was the location. It's within walking distance of all the designer stores, restaurants and souvenir shops but they are far enough away to allow peace and quiet at night.
 

DO

A trip to Honolulu would not be complete without seeing Pearl Harbor. Seventy-two years ago, World War II began for the USA when the Japanese attacked the U.S. Pacific Fleet anchored at the harbor, as well as other military outposts. The USS Arizona Memorial is an unforgettable and solemn reminder of the 1,117 crewmen who lost their lives that fateful day. It is only accessible by a short boat ride from the visitor center, allowing approximately 15-20 minutes per visit. The deck of the USS Arizona is still visible below the surface with parts of the wreckage still leaking oil, some 70 plus years after she sank. They call this layer of oil the "tears of Arizona".
 

EAT

Eating by the beach is one of my favorite things to do.Queen's Surf Cafe and Lanai came highly recommended and I'm glad we went. It's a popular spot; there was a very long line when we arrived! The food was unpretentious and tasty. For less than $10, you get a plate of Kalua pulled pork with rice, a side salad and a cold bottle of beer. What more could you ask for?
 

MUST SEE

At the top of my must-see list was Doris Duke's Islamic-style Shangri La mansion. Nestled in a residential subdivision near Diamond Head and on a bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean, it is filled with treasures and artifacts from the Islamic world. I would call it my dream home! It is an eclectic mix of Syrian, Indian and Moroccan decorative elements as well as actual rooms constructed from torn down palaces and assembled in Hawaii. It was luxurious, yet fittingly relaxed for a summer home.
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

Crashing waves, white sand beaches, Hula dancers and Hawaiian shirts will forever be ingrained in my memory, thanks to a childhood spent watching Jack Lord in Hawaii Five-O and Tom Selleck in Magnum P.I. Ever since, I've been drawn to Polynesian inspired prints and have collected my own stash of vintage Hawaiian shirts. I was hoping to catch a glimpse of Laird Hamilton in action but I had no such luck. When I come back, maybe I'll even learn how to surf. Aloha!

Can I Tell You about ... Paris

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STAY

The Notre Dame Hotel is a boutique property, boasting interiors designed by Christian Lacroix - I'm a huge fan of his sense of color and pattern mixing. The interiors paid homage to his haute couture collections with their bold colors and unexpected mélange of prints. The location was perfect, right along the banks of the Seine. Second hand bookstores, sidewalk cafes, the Luxembourg Gardens, Isle de la Cite and the trendy Le Marais district were all within walking distance. My room had a beautiful view of the famous Notre Dame cathedral, which was quite a sight to behold at sunrise and sunset. 
 

EAT

I crave Moroccan food whenever I'm in Paris. I'm not sure why, but fortunately there are plenty of establishments to choose from! Chez Omar is an old standby and conveniently located in the north end of Le Marais. It's easy to miss because the façade is quite unassuming, so keep your eyes peeled. The menu is limited to the classics, but if you're not sure what to get, the waiters will happily decide for you. Be ready with cash because they don't take credit cards. Nor do they take reservations so try to arrive early since the restaurant is always packed.
 

SHOP

At the edge of Le Marais, set in an old converted factory is a fabulous store called Merci. You can buy flowers, read a second hand book in their café, shop for home furnishings, children's clothing and exclusive items from the chicest fashion labels. The best part about patronizing Merci is that the owners are using all profits after breaking even to operate a co-op for young women in Madagascar. Who doesn't love charitable shopping? 
 

MUST SEE

The Musee D'Orsay is one of my favorite museums. It's not as overwhelming or exhausting as the Louvre; you can fully explore it in a few hours. I usually prefer to go in the late morning so that by lunchtime I can head to the restaurant that has the most incredible painted ceilings and grandiose crystal chandeliers. It's very Belle Epoque, quite glamorous. 
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

Paris is the one city I never tire of coming back to year after year, season after season. It first captivated my imagination during my formative years when I first saw Brassai's evocative photos of cafe society. Now I come twice a year for work to observe trends, do a little shopping, and of course, to be inspired. There's always a new store to visit, an exhibit to see, a bistro to try. It's a wonderful walking city; I love how you can wander aimlessly for hours from one neighborhood to another. And of course there's that certain "je ne sais quoi" about Parisians that makes people watching at cafes a sport!

Can I Tell You About ... Aigues-Mortes

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STAY

Villa Mazarin is situated in the heart of the fortified city of Aigues-Mortes. The structure was built in the 15th century and furnished with Provencal antiques. There's a heated indoor pool and Jacuzzi that come in handy, perfect after a full day of walking and sightseeing.
 

EAT

The restaurant Le "S" is a quaint spot located on a narrow little street off of the main square. The proprietress was charming, self-deprecating and hilarious. She was a one-woman show! When we told her where we were from, she reminisced about her trip to New York and how much she enjoyed it. She offered three different types of prix fixe menus and everything we chose was delicious, truly authentic Camarguaise cuisine. For after dinner drinks we crawled across the street to Bar Le Tac Tac. It is the tiniest and most well stocked bar I have ever been to. Glasses and people were on top of each other, but it was wonderful. You have to see it to believe it!
 

DO

You must walk around the city walls and up the towers. From there you can see the pink salt marshes and the rooftops of the houses within this medieval city. You can almost imagine what it must have been like in the 13th century during Louis IX. The town's rectilinear streets have stayed intact and are considered one of the best examples of 13th century military architecture.
 

MUST SEE

The Parc Ornithologique in Pont de Gau is a vast bird sanctuary filled with their famous pink flamingoes. The trails are marked with hidden observation posts so you can witness the birds in their natural habitat and take photos without scaring them away.
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

Aigues-Mortes (meaning dead water) is a quaint medieval town with a fascinating history marked by the crusades and the Templar Knights. This medieval city sits on the flat marshes of the Petite Camargue and was a small hamlet for salt gatherers and fishermen. To the south of the town you can see the rose colored salt marshes where they produce beautiful salt, Aigues-Mortes' most famous export. I love that you can see everything in a day and visit other towns within the vicinity.

Can I Tell You about ... Hudson Valley

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STAY

The Glenmere Mansion A luxurious Tuscan-style boutique hotel located in the town of Chester. Built in 1911, the mansion overlooks the idyllic Glenmere Lake and was real estate mogul Robert Goelet's country home outside of New York City. He commissioned architects Carrere and Hastings, who also designed The New York Public Library. The new proprietors, Alan Stenberg and Daniel DeSimone, have restored it back to its former glory with state-of-the art technology. Interior Designer Scott Snyder decorated the rooms with Robert Rauschenberg and Robert Motherwell contemporary art, custom-designed Italian linens and Carrara marble baths with heated floors. 
 

EAT

Dining at Local 111 in Philmont was unforgettable. This farm-to-table restaurant used to be an auto service station and boasts tall glass garage doors that open during the summer months. It's a chic and contemporary dining space with a relaxed atmosphere. All the ingredients come direct from local farmers, including the award winning Old Chatham Sheepherding Company's delectable goat cheese. Needless to say, the food was incredible and alone worth the trip!
 

DO

For years I've heard friends rave about the inspiring Dia Art Foundation in the town of Beacon, so I decided it was a must. Once a Nabisco box printing factory, it was transformed to an exhibition space in 2003. The museum is the ideal location for showcasing Minimalist, Conceptual and Post-Minimalist art, sculpture and installations. Richard Serra's steel sculptures and Louise Bourgeois' Spider, located in the museum's attic, completely transfixed me. 
 

MUST SEE

The Rockefeller Estate, also known as Kykuit, is situated at the highest point in Pocantico Hills with a breathtaking view of the Hudson River. This 40-room home filled with paintings, sculpture and history, is one of America's most famous private residences. The extensive art collection includes works from Henry Moore, Alexander Calder, Louise Nevelson, David Smith and Pablo Picasso. The former basement turned art gallery houses a rare Picasso tapestry of "Guernica" in tonal shades of brown. 
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

A trip to the Hudson would not be complete without indulging in a little antiquing! Conveniently, all the stores line Warren Street in the center of town, which makes for a lovely leisurely stroll and one stop shopping! Some of my favorites were Neven & Neven Moderne, Historical Materialism and Hudson Home.

Can I Tell You About ... Santa Fe, New Mexico

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STAY

We stayed at La Posada de Santa Fe, a luxury hotel and spa. Originally built in 1882 as a Victorian mansion, the hotel was later renovated to resemble Santa Fe's historic adobe architecture. It is conveniently located just 3 blocks from the main square and has free shuttle service to anywhere in the city.
 

EAT

The most charming spot for breakfast is Cafe Pasquals located in the heart of downtown Santa Fe. The boisterous, festive restaurant is adorned with murals by renowned painter Leovigildo Martinez, Mexican tiles and paper banners. I had the trout hash and it was by far the best breakfast I've enjoyed this year!
 

MUST SEE

The Girard wing of the Museum of International Folk Art, named after architect and textile designer Alexander Girard, holds the long-term exhibit Multiple Visions: A Common Bond. The room is a cornucopia of more than one hundred thousand toys, figurines and dioramas collected from over a hundred countries on six continents by Alexander and Susan Girard. Each vignette tells a different story with intricate, awe-inspiring dioramas. The exhibit is absorbing and fascinating for both young and old, and certainly brought out the child in me. Be sure to watch for my personal favorite, The Vision of Heaven and Hell.
 

SHOP

I was eager to stroll along the Palace of the Governors. The area is lined with boutiques, art galleries and the Santa Fe Indian Market, which is a highly acclaimed Native American arts show dedicated to the preservation and understanding of the American Indian culture. I saw artists from nearby pueblos showcasing their silver and turquoise jewelry, hand-woven blankets and pottery. I was especially drawn to the black on black pottery of Marvin Martinez. He learned the craft from his great grandmother Maria Martinez, a famed potter from the San Ildefonso pueblo, where Marvin and his wife still live and work on their historical craft.
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

Centinela Traditional Arts is the result of seven generations of northern New Mexican Hispanic folk art/fiber weaving passed down within the Trujillo family. Irvin and Lisa are both celebrated and award-winning master weavers with work on display at the Smithsonian and various other museums all over the world. What sets them apart from other weavers is their ability to blend traditional patterns with modern themes and elements creating a new vocabulary of design and jaw dropping works of art. I was very touched and inspired by their designs.