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465 West 23rd Street, Suite 9B
New York, NY, 10011
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(917) 664-2294

JOURNAL

CAN I TELL YOU ... TAKE A TRIP AROUND THE WORLD WITH ME, MEET THE WOMEN THAT INSPIRE ME OR GET THE SCOOP ON NEW STYLES.

Can I Tell You about ... Honolulu

Rafe Totengco

STAY

We chose Hotel Renew, a chic and modern alternative half a block away from the beach with windows facing the sea. The hotel staff was friendly and helpful. They offer complimentary beach towels, folding chairs and boogie boards to borrow so you can hit the beach fully equipped. What we liked most was the location. It's within walking distance of all the designer stores, restaurants and souvenir shops but they are far enough away to allow peace and quiet at night.
 

DO

A trip to Honolulu would not be complete without seeing Pearl Harbor. Seventy-two years ago, World War II began for the USA when the Japanese attacked the U.S. Pacific Fleet anchored at the harbor, as well as other military outposts. The USS Arizona Memorial is an unforgettable and solemn reminder of the 1,117 crewmen who lost their lives that fateful day. It is only accessible by a short boat ride from the visitor center, allowing approximately 15-20 minutes per visit. The deck of the USS Arizona is still visible below the surface with parts of the wreckage still leaking oil, some 70 plus years after she sank. They call this layer of oil the "tears of Arizona".
 

EAT

Eating by the beach is one of my favorite things to do.Queen's Surf Cafe and Lanai came highly recommended and I'm glad we went. It's a popular spot; there was a very long line when we arrived! The food was unpretentious and tasty. For less than $10, you get a plate of Kalua pulled pork with rice, a side salad and a cold bottle of beer. What more could you ask for?
 

MUST SEE

At the top of my must-see list was Doris Duke's Islamic-style Shangri La mansion. Nestled in a residential subdivision near Diamond Head and on a bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean, it is filled with treasures and artifacts from the Islamic world. I would call it my dream home! It is an eclectic mix of Syrian, Indian and Moroccan decorative elements as well as actual rooms constructed from torn down palaces and assembled in Hawaii. It was luxurious, yet fittingly relaxed for a summer home.
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

Crashing waves, white sand beaches, Hula dancers and Hawaiian shirts will forever be ingrained in my memory, thanks to a childhood spent watching Jack Lord in Hawaii Five-O and Tom Selleck in Magnum P.I. Ever since, I've been drawn to Polynesian inspired prints and have collected my own stash of vintage Hawaiian shirts. I was hoping to catch a glimpse of Laird Hamilton in action but I had no such luck. When I come back, maybe I'll even learn how to surf. Aloha!

Can I Tell You about ... Paris

Rafe Totengco

STAY

The Notre Dame Hotel is a boutique property, boasting interiors designed by Christian Lacroix - I'm a huge fan of his sense of color and pattern mixing. The interiors paid homage to his haute couture collections with their bold colors and unexpected mélange of prints. The location was perfect, right along the banks of the Seine. Second hand bookstores, sidewalk cafes, the Luxembourg Gardens, Isle de la Cite and the trendy Le Marais district were all within walking distance. My room had a beautiful view of the famous Notre Dame cathedral, which was quite a sight to behold at sunrise and sunset. 
 

EAT

I crave Moroccan food whenever I'm in Paris. I'm not sure why, but fortunately there are plenty of establishments to choose from! Chez Omar is an old standby and conveniently located in the north end of Le Marais. It's easy to miss because the façade is quite unassuming, so keep your eyes peeled. The menu is limited to the classics, but if you're not sure what to get, the waiters will happily decide for you. Be ready with cash because they don't take credit cards. Nor do they take reservations so try to arrive early since the restaurant is always packed.
 

SHOP

At the edge of Le Marais, set in an old converted factory is a fabulous store called Merci. You can buy flowers, read a second hand book in their café, shop for home furnishings, children's clothing and exclusive items from the chicest fashion labels. The best part about patronizing Merci is that the owners are using all profits after breaking even to operate a co-op for young women in Madagascar. Who doesn't love charitable shopping? 
 

MUST SEE

The Musee D'Orsay is one of my favorite museums. It's not as overwhelming or exhausting as the Louvre; you can fully explore it in a few hours. I usually prefer to go in the late morning so that by lunchtime I can head to the restaurant that has the most incredible painted ceilings and grandiose crystal chandeliers. It's very Belle Epoque, quite glamorous. 
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

Paris is the one city I never tire of coming back to year after year, season after season. It first captivated my imagination during my formative years when I first saw Brassai's evocative photos of cafe society. Now I come twice a year for work to observe trends, do a little shopping, and of course, to be inspired. There's always a new store to visit, an exhibit to see, a bistro to try. It's a wonderful walking city; I love how you can wander aimlessly for hours from one neighborhood to another. And of course there's that certain "je ne sais quoi" about Parisians that makes people watching at cafes a sport!

Can I Tell You About ... Aigues-Mortes

Rafe Totengco

STAY

Villa Mazarin is situated in the heart of the fortified city of Aigues-Mortes. The structure was built in the 15th century and furnished with Provencal antiques. There's a heated indoor pool and Jacuzzi that come in handy, perfect after a full day of walking and sightseeing.
 

EAT

The restaurant Le "S" is a quaint spot located on a narrow little street off of the main square. The proprietress was charming, self-deprecating and hilarious. She was a one-woman show! When we told her where we were from, she reminisced about her trip to New York and how much she enjoyed it. She offered three different types of prix fixe menus and everything we chose was delicious, truly authentic Camarguaise cuisine. For after dinner drinks we crawled across the street to Bar Le Tac Tac. It is the tiniest and most well stocked bar I have ever been to. Glasses and people were on top of each other, but it was wonderful. You have to see it to believe it!
 

DO

You must walk around the city walls and up the towers. From there you can see the pink salt marshes and the rooftops of the houses within this medieval city. You can almost imagine what it must have been like in the 13th century during Louis IX. The town's rectilinear streets have stayed intact and are considered one of the best examples of 13th century military architecture.
 

MUST SEE

The Parc Ornithologique in Pont de Gau is a vast bird sanctuary filled with their famous pink flamingoes. The trails are marked with hidden observation posts so you can witness the birds in their natural habitat and take photos without scaring them away.
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

Aigues-Mortes (meaning dead water) is a quaint medieval town with a fascinating history marked by the crusades and the Templar Knights. This medieval city sits on the flat marshes of the Petite Camargue and was a small hamlet for salt gatherers and fishermen. To the south of the town you can see the rose colored salt marshes where they produce beautiful salt, Aigues-Mortes' most famous export. I love that you can see everything in a day and visit other towns within the vicinity.

Can I Tell You about ... Hudson Valley

Rafe Totengco

STAY

The Glenmere Mansion A luxurious Tuscan-style boutique hotel located in the town of Chester. Built in 1911, the mansion overlooks the idyllic Glenmere Lake and was real estate mogul Robert Goelet's country home outside of New York City. He commissioned architects Carrere and Hastings, who also designed The New York Public Library. The new proprietors, Alan Stenberg and Daniel DeSimone, have restored it back to its former glory with state-of-the art technology. Interior Designer Scott Snyder decorated the rooms with Robert Rauschenberg and Robert Motherwell contemporary art, custom-designed Italian linens and Carrara marble baths with heated floors. 
 

EAT

Dining at Local 111 in Philmont was unforgettable. This farm-to-table restaurant used to be an auto service station and boasts tall glass garage doors that open during the summer months. It's a chic and contemporary dining space with a relaxed atmosphere. All the ingredients come direct from local farmers, including the award winning Old Chatham Sheepherding Company's delectable goat cheese. Needless to say, the food was incredible and alone worth the trip!
 

DO

For years I've heard friends rave about the inspiring Dia Art Foundation in the town of Beacon, so I decided it was a must. Once a Nabisco box printing factory, it was transformed to an exhibition space in 2003. The museum is the ideal location for showcasing Minimalist, Conceptual and Post-Minimalist art, sculpture and installations. Richard Serra's steel sculptures and Louise Bourgeois' Spider, located in the museum's attic, completely transfixed me. 
 

MUST SEE

The Rockefeller Estate, also known as Kykuit, is situated at the highest point in Pocantico Hills with a breathtaking view of the Hudson River. This 40-room home filled with paintings, sculpture and history, is one of America's most famous private residences. The extensive art collection includes works from Henry Moore, Alexander Calder, Louise Nevelson, David Smith and Pablo Picasso. The former basement turned art gallery houses a rare Picasso tapestry of "Guernica" in tonal shades of brown. 
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

A trip to the Hudson would not be complete without indulging in a little antiquing! Conveniently, all the stores line Warren Street in the center of town, which makes for a lovely leisurely stroll and one stop shopping! Some of my favorites were Neven & Neven Moderne, Historical Materialism and Hudson Home.

Can I Tell You About ... Santa Fe, New Mexico

Rafe Totengco

STAY

We stayed at La Posada de Santa Fe, a luxury hotel and spa. Originally built in 1882 as a Victorian mansion, the hotel was later renovated to resemble Santa Fe's historic adobe architecture. It is conveniently located just 3 blocks from the main square and has free shuttle service to anywhere in the city.
 

EAT

The most charming spot for breakfast is Cafe Pasquals located in the heart of downtown Santa Fe. The boisterous, festive restaurant is adorned with murals by renowned painter Leovigildo Martinez, Mexican tiles and paper banners. I had the trout hash and it was by far the best breakfast I've enjoyed this year!
 

MUST SEE

The Girard wing of the Museum of International Folk Art, named after architect and textile designer Alexander Girard, holds the long-term exhibit Multiple Visions: A Common Bond. The room is a cornucopia of more than one hundred thousand toys, figurines and dioramas collected from over a hundred countries on six continents by Alexander and Susan Girard. Each vignette tells a different story with intricate, awe-inspiring dioramas. The exhibit is absorbing and fascinating for both young and old, and certainly brought out the child in me. Be sure to watch for my personal favorite, The Vision of Heaven and Hell.
 

SHOP

I was eager to stroll along the Palace of the Governors. The area is lined with boutiques, art galleries and the Santa Fe Indian Market, which is a highly acclaimed Native American arts show dedicated to the preservation and understanding of the American Indian culture. I saw artists from nearby pueblos showcasing their silver and turquoise jewelry, hand-woven blankets and pottery. I was especially drawn to the black on black pottery of Marvin Martinez. He learned the craft from his great grandmother Maria Martinez, a famed potter from the San Ildefonso pueblo, where Marvin and his wife still live and work on their historical craft.
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

Centinela Traditional Arts is the result of seven generations of northern New Mexican Hispanic folk art/fiber weaving passed down within the Trujillo family. Irvin and Lisa are both celebrated and award-winning master weavers with work on display at the Smithsonian and various other museums all over the world. What sets them apart from other weavers is their ability to blend traditional patterns with modern themes and elements creating a new vocabulary of design and jaw dropping works of art. I was very touched and inspired by their designs.

Can I Tell You about ... Arles, France

Rafe Totengco

STAY

We initially booked rooms at L'Oustau de Baumaniere, famed for its discreet location and chic interiors as well a Michelin-starred restaurant. But when we checked in, we were informed that we had been upgraded to stay instead at their sister property, La Cabro d'Or. Upon arriving at our new accommodations we immediately felt at home. The proprietors, Jean-Andre and Genevieve Charial, have turned a former 18th century stone farmhouse into an elegant and comfortable boutique hotel with sprawling lavender gardens, a swimming pool, tennis court and a lavish spa. Genevieve handles all the interiors while Jean-Andre runs the hotel and restaurants. Our suite was luxurious and inviting, complete with a living room filled with books and a balcony overlooking the garden.  
 

EAT

Prix-fixe menus are very popular in France and this is definitely true when it comes to Michelin-starred restaurants. A friend who was in Provence recently was raving about L'atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel so I made reservations. It was a wonderful long, leisurely lunch. Every dish was presented so creatively I couldn't help but take photos of every plate! Chef Rabanel is known for using fresh ingredients including flowers from his own garden and concocting them into complex, delicious combinations. 
 

MUST SEE

The Arles Amphitheatre goes back as early as 90 AD when it was built by the Romans, and is still in use today. Over the years it has been used as a theatre, fortress and even as housing for over 200 families. Today the arena is used for plays, concerts and bull fights during the summer months. Climbing to the top you are rewarded with sweeping views of Arles and you can almost imagine what it must have been like during Roman times.
 

SHOP

I always say, "I haven't met a print I didn't like", and at Souleiado I fell in love with every single one I saw. This company has a strong history and is known for prints that evoke Provencal motifs and color combinations. In fact, the name is Provencal for "sun shining through the clouds after the rain". The store even houses a photo of Pablo Picasso wearing one of their shirts. Despite my meager attempt at self-control, I walked out with enough printed shirts to make a quilt!
 

DO

Follow the Vincent Van Gogh Trail. He painted and drew over 300 images depicting his impressions of scenes and landscapes during his time in Arles. The trail has 21 stops, each marked with a reproduction of the art he painted there. These allow you to enjoy the vantage point of where the artist set up his easel. 
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

While walking along the narrow streets one afternoon we chanced upon Musee Reattu. The museum was a former Grand Priory of the Order of Malta and owns a sizable collection of 17th-19th century old masters as well as drawings and paintings donated by Picasso. Coincidentally, the museum was holding a costume exhibit curated by Christian Lacroix. The exhibition showcased Lacroix's work as a costume designer for the opera. I was enthralled to be able to view the garments up close and see the craftsmanship that went into each piece. The setting was like a costume party for  Scheherazade and was fabulously extravagant! Before leaving I stepped into the museum shop where they were selling limited edition lithographs of fashion illustrations by Christian Lacroix. Naturally, I had to have one!

Can I Tell You about ... Copenhagen, Denmark

Rafe Totengco

STAY

The Hotel Axel Guldsmeden is located at the edge of the former red light district in Vesterbro. It's known for serving the best organic buffet breakfast in the city and for their own organic shampoo and cream products. The look of the hotel is eclectic; a fusion of Balinese teak furniture, ikat pillows and bed spreads with Persian rugs and original art on the walls.
 

EAT

Noma. Before you even book your flight, make sure you've secured a reservation at this Michelin two star restaurant. Getting a table was no easy feat but perseverance finally paid off! It was certainly worth all the trouble. The food was inventive, delicious and awe inspiring. The total experience was better than I had imagined. I walked out satiated and completely giddy! Believe the hype, it's true!
 

MUST SEE

The Statens Museum for Kunst / The Danish National Galleryhouses over 9,000 paintings and sculptures as well personal collections from past Danish kings. An art installation entitled "We the People" by Danish-Vietnamese artist Danh Vo was on exhibit. I also enjoyed viewing the fragmented full-scale replica of the Statue of Liberty. These pieces were scattered all over the world and some were placed in the Danish museum.
 

SHOP

Illums Bolighus. This is heaven on earth for any interior design aficionado. Their roster is a who's who in the world of Scandinavian design from Arne Jacobsen to Georg Jensen and Verner Panton. If you can't buy an actual chair don't fret because they sell miniature versions of these modern classics!
 

DO

Rent a bike. Copenhagen is famous for its biking culture and is has officially been deemed the first bike city in the world. The Danes are well known for their love of cycling and cities all around the world are now looking at ways to emulate this phenomenon. Last year, it was also voted the "Best City for Cyclists" and the "World's Most Livable City".
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

The Danes believe that "only the best is good enough" and design is a way of life. This aesthetic consciousness permeates in everything from lighting, furniture, clothing to waste cans. Each store, gallery and restaurant has a restrained elegance in the way everything is presented. Nothing is superfluous and everything is carefully thought out and resolved.

Can I Tell You About ... Tulum, Mexico

Rafe Totengco

STAY

The Mayan Riviera is lined with eco-chic hotels with beachfront restaurants. Playa Azul achieves both with the rustic decor and spare furnishing and is situated in the center of the Tulum beach which makes its location ideal. Our room had an open terrace with a great view of the sea. The cabanas on the beach provided ample shade, and excellent bar service, and made napping in the afternoons a required time in our schedule.
 

EAT

Believe the hype about Hartwood. Everything we ordered was delicious. The pulled pork was tender and deliciously spiced. For dessert I had their home-made sweet corn ice-cream which was just perfect for me, as it brought back fond childhood memories. To be sure of getting a table arrive before they open and line up - otherwise you risk being turned away. Another foodie favorite is El Tabano. The restaurant serves tasty and spicy traditional Mexican fare minus the long line of people.
 

MUST SEE

Get up at the crack of dawn and drive to Chichen Itza. If you get there early enough you will avoid the worst of the busloads of tourists that swarm daily to this historical site and the midday heat. The ancient city was founded around 400 AD and was one of the greatest Mayan centers of the Yucatan Peninsula. The site is huge with multiple temples, pyramids and marketplaces that give a real insight into the power and sophistication of the Mayan civilization. The massive Kukulkan Pyramid has been partially restored, allowing visitors to see how it would have looked when in use as well as the more tumbledown state in which it was found. It is deservedly one of the most iconic images associated with the Yucatan and Mexico.
 

SHOP

La Llorona is a treasure trove full of hand-embroidered fabrics, clothing and accessories sourced from all over Mexico and Guatemala. There was so much to choose from I could have stayed there for hours going through every pile of fabrics. I was in print heaven.
 

DO

Snorkeling through Dos Ojos Cenote is a fun activity to do while you're in Tulum. It is called Two Eyes because of the two large circular cenotes with cave systems underneath. On a sunny day you can clearly see the rock formations of the underwater cave. You'll need a guide and a flash light swimming through the labyrinth of tunnels while carefully avoiding stalactites, stalagmites and other snorkelers. 
 

WHAT I LOVED MOST

I love waking and sleeping to the sound of the waves and feeling the sea breeze that wafted through our balcony. Tulum is a perfect place to unwind and decompress. I can't wait to go back.